48 Hours in Salzburg

When a long weekend swung around last month, I was itching to explore somewhere new. Lately I’ve been trying to see my more immediate Hungarian surroundings instead of jetting off to another country, but this time, I sets my sights further. C and I were on a mission to make the most of our three day weekend, to someplace far enough that it didn’t seem like we were in the same area, but close enough that we didn’t spend half of our vacation on a plane or train. Eventually we set our sights on Salzburg, Austria, and I couldn’t be happier! Here’s the shortlist of what to do, eat, and see on a long weekend in Salzburg!

GETTING THERE:
Salzburg is in a prime position for those crisscrossing the continent: it’s two hours by train from Munich and three hours from Vienna. Coming from Budapest, C and I took the five hour train for ~€50 round trip. And we learned a very important lesson about seat reservations (aka GET. THEM. Unless you want an incredibly sore booty from sitting on the floor in some obscure corner of the train for five hours😆)

STAY:
Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
Normally I am the cheapest of cheap, so staying in hotels is a big treat for me. But I’m learning that IT’S OKAY to spend money on something that you’ll enjoy and that’s important to you (read: not sharing a bathroom with 8 other people or fighting for the bottom bunk in a hostel). Thankfully, Booking.com came through and we found a great deal at Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten.

Nothing in Salzburg is very far apart, but the hotel had the advantage of being just removed from the main tourist shopping street, so you don’t feel so squished in by touristy konditorei’s and souvenir shops. However, it was only a 5 min walk away from both the walking street and the Mirabell Palace Gardens, as well as a 15 minute walk from the train station (I love it when you don’t have to spend money on a taxi!)

Once checked in, the attentive reception handed us a beautiful key–one of those old, heavy ones with a carved handle. It was just one of many details that made the hotel feel special. The decor was slightly faded, but more regal than outdated, with lots of soft lighting and sparkling crystal. Our room and bathroom were squeaky clean, and were well equipped (although I would have loved some shampoo and conditioner instead of that combo shampoo/soap stuff). And the bed was sooooo soft! Add that to the chocolates left on our pillows and I was a pleased customer.

DO:
Salzburg Fortress:
If you overdo it on apple strudel while in Salzburg, DO NOT WORRY because the hike up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress will cleanse you of all of your caloric sins. We climbed the impressive hill to the fortress entrance (and had a brief moment of worry when we didn’t know if they accepted card–but they do). Our basic entry ticket cost €13 and included an audio guide tour, most of the castle museums (excluding the Prince’s Chambers and the Magic Theater), and a ride on the funicular. If you don’t want to make the hike up the hill, you can always start at the bottom and take the funicular up + down (but get a good spot for the 60 second ride, or else you’ll just be looking at the backs of everybody’s heads instead of the Salzburg cityscape).

*But* I suggest walking, because you can access a breathtaking view that’s a little off the beaten path. You’ll walk loads of stairs and come to a final hill that leads to the entry gate. Before going up that hill, turn left instead and follow the curve around the hill…it’ll take you to a peaceful lookout overlooking the mountains.

Mirabell Gardens
Nothing was in crazy bloom on the gray day we strolled through Mirabell, but at least that means it wasn’t crowded! quick stroll through, get in your Sound of Music fix (the Do Re Mi scene was filmed here. You can find the “musical steps” the Von Trapp children skipped up and down!)

Walking into the Mirabell Gardens

Altstadt
Once you cross the river you’ll quickly be delivered into the arms of Altstadt, or, Old Town. We spent most of our time there navigating its manicured alleyways, seeing Mozart’s birthplace, window-shopping the designer stores, and finding a sunny square to sit in.

Manner Flagship Chocolate Shop
We came in here on a whim and were like…well…two kids in a candy store. You can mix and match any of the iconic chocolates and go on a sweet spree!

DRINK:
We happened to be visiting over St. Patrick’s Day, so we felt like we couldn’t turn in for the night without one Irish drink. Which is how we ended up at the Celtic Spirit! There were some rowdier Irish pubs across the river, but the Celtic was more like a cozy nook. No gimmicks, just a nice atmosphere. We settled in the back corner and squinted at the long whiskey list through the dim lighting, trying to guess which U2 song was playing softly over the speakers.

EAT:
Since it was close to our hotel, on our way to the city center, and had loads of baked goods and breakfast options, we ended up at the Resch & Frischt bakery, right across from the Mirabell gardens. I may have enjoyed my pastry the first day, but y’all, I reveled in the breakfast there the next morning. Rolls, jam, ham and cheese–I felt like an Austrian.

Finally meeting Mozart

Paninoteca in Aldstadt was a pleasant surprise. Normally I ignore restaurants on tourist streets because I think there must be some more authentic, cheaper, hidden gem alternative out there, but I learned that paninis with layer upon layer of prosciutto or spicy salami, or what have you, all for around €5. This was what a sandwich should always aspire to be. We took our sandwiches and our beers and sat in the square opposite. I definitely recommend Paninoteca for a quick bite.

Which American travels all the way to Austria just to sniff out an American diner on her first night there? This girl (although, it’s not all my fault, C really wanted to try a Philly cheesesteak, okay?!) Anyways, if you’re in the burger & fries mood (and trust me, it’s a reeeeeally good burger), then hop over to Goodman’s and grab a milkshake with a little bit of 50s nostalgia on the side.

Dinner: For our one big night out in Austria, there was no other option…we had to hunt down a good schnitzel. It was really important to C to find a place with a good beer house vibe, and after a quick search we walked across the river to Gasthaus Zwettler’s. It was packed, but luckily we were able to snag the last seats at the bar and settle in for the best schnitzel we could have hoped for. Juicy, sizzling fresh, accompanied by buttery parsley potatoes and a sizable mug of Kaiser Karl brew. I was so content by the end of it, y’all, I could have fallen asleep right there.

We were soaking in the last of the sunshine when we came across Cafe-Konditorei Habakuk. We only had a couple hours before we had to catch our train, but you’d better believe we were going to make time for one last dessert. Before we knew it, our table was laden with generous portions of apple strudel (with vanilla sauce) and the famous Sacher torte (THIS is why you travel in pairs, people! You can get different things to eat and then share). Once again, my faith in tourist places was restored. The cafe was on a main shopping street but DAT STRUDEL THO. Can’t imagine finding better.

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48 hours was just enough for the small city of Salzburg. Over the long weekend, we managed to fit in plenty of delicious food, hilltop views, and Austrian sweets–and we always had a comfy hotel to come back to in between. Soon enough we were back on the train to Budapest–but this time, with seat reservations ;).
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