I can’t exactly pin down when this Alpine ski dream of mine started–maybe after watching Chalet Girl or Johnny Tsunami one too many times. But snowy mountains and proud evergreens have always made me feel at home–I’m from Washington State, after all! When a friend reached out and asked if I’d join her on a group ski holiday in the French Alps, I jumped at it! Skiing was just too expensive for my family, growing up, so giving myself this experience was like a dream come true. I am so, so grateful! What does a total beginner do on a ski week in Morzine, France? Let’s talk about it. Bon voyage!
Why I Chose a Group Holiday With Hofnar
I love the idea of group travel–it’s a great way to unlock a destination with a built-in friend group! So when my friend, Liv (you may recognize her from that surf holiday in Portugal), asked if I’d come along, it was a yes for me!
Hofnar has two ski chalets–Chalet Skade is aimed towards a younger age bracket (20s-30s) and Chalet Hubert (where I stayed) is aimed toward people in their 30s-40s. Chalet Hubert is a bit more expensive, but it’s more updated and has a nicer range of meals. Although, Chalet Skade has a hot tub, so can’t fault you if that’s your thing! The group was full of mixed abilities, so everyone had their own rhythm. Some people spent all day on the slopes, others (like myself) skied a bit, worked a little, and then spent the afternoons exploring the town. Then we’d come back together for family dinners. Sometimes we’d go out and party after, Sometimes we’d stay in and chat by the fire. It was a good mix!
What’s Included?
- Twin bed in the cutest, updated, centrally-located chalet. I wish I could live here!
- Freshly-made breakfasts and dinners most days (The chalet hosts cook for you! It made the week so relaxing.)
- Snacks at the chalet all throughout the day–there’s even a waffle station!
- Unlimited alcohol at the chalet.
What’s not included?
- Ski equipment (however, there’s a ski hire place right below the chalet, and Hofnar guests get a discount!)
- Lift pass
- 2 dinners out
What to Do in Morzine
Morzine is exactly what I picture when I think of a cute village in the French Alps, and a popular destination for ski trips. Easily accessible by a 90-minute drive south of Geneva, the town is nestled in a picturesque valley. It gives you access to two major ski areas: Morzine/Les Gets and Avoriaz. Through these, you can explore all of the Portes du Soleil, skiing to Châtel, Montriond, and even over to Les Crosets in Switzerland!
Morzine is a great option for beginners as there are plenty of green (very easy) and blue (easy) routes to practice on (as opposed to the abundance of steeper routes in neighboring Chamonix, for example).
Non-Skiing Activities in Morzine
I was excited to try skiing, but I wanted the whole Alpine town vibe! Of course, you can get a pedestrian lift pass and go hiking in the snow, try snowshoeing, or just grab a drink at one of the mountaintop bars. What else can you do?
Train Hard, Play Hard
I also appreciated having a group to experience the après-ski activities with. We all met at Happy Hours bar–famous for its lively mountain parties–and had quite a good time. Fun fact, you can take Bus M there, you don’t even have to ski in! There are actually many free buses that will shuttle you in and around Morzine.
Town Events
The Tourism Office of Morzine was on it! During the week I saw an open-air artisans marker, complimentary mulled wine in the town square, among other things. Follow them for a weekly program of events.
Eating French Food!
There was noooo way that I was going to pass up exploring some of the most famous cuisine in the world! As I said, the Hofnar hosts cooked breakfast and most dinners for us, so one of my favorite post-ski rituals was finding a snack! Crêperie “Chez Martine” was right at the foot of the Pléney gondola and had so many filling options. La Bonbonnière is arguably the best bakery in town–and has the added bonus of being right across the street from the chalet! Fromagerie du Noyer actually had a free fondue and yodeling evening–for your sake, I hope it happens every Thursday, because, wow, what a time.
Price Breakdown
Because let’s be honest–this is one of my biggest questions when planning a trips. I knew that a skiing holiday wasn’t going to be a budget trip, but I’m glad to pay the money if I feel like I get the right value out of it. Here’s how it added up for me:
- Accommodation: $1220 for a spot in an en-suite twin room, with breakfast, alcohol, snacks, and most dinners included.
- Ski Equipment Rental: ~$145 for skis, boots, and a helmet at Hubert Sports (with the Hofnar discount).
- Travel/Accident Insurance: $15 with SafetyWing (more on that below!)
- Ski Lessons: $185 for six days of 2-hour lessons. I was very happy with ESF!
- Lift Passes: You have some choices here! A 6-Day pass for Morzine/Les Gets is ~$275. If you also want to access the other ski area (Avoriaz and routes that lead into Switzerland), then the full 6-Day Portes de Soleil pass is ~$350. Since my lessons were all in the Morzine/Les Gets area, I opted for the former.
- Airport Transfers: For ~$60 round trip, there are two very similar companies who offer direct group transfers from Geneva airport to Morzine: Alpy Bus and Alpine Fleet. They are both a little chaotic in their own ways, but are quick, direct, and get the job done. Be aware that the day before your return transfer they will write you with an updated pickup time!
- Ski Gear: Thankfully I had some generous friends who lent me their snow outfits so I didn’t have to drop $200+ on new things. I did, however, pick up some budget-friendly underlayers at Decathlon.
The Scary Ski Accident–A Note About Health Insurance:
My best friend, mom, and therapist all said the same thing when I told them I was going skiing: “Make sure you get good insurance!” For all of the fun of skiing, turns out that hurling yourself down a mountain on two planks of wood can be pretty dangerous.
After some research (and suggestions from you all) I partnered with SafetyWing. I appreciated how their site made it easy to select just the days I’d be skiing, and that their customer support was responsive to my questions.
They’re a good option if you’re taking a trip, working abroad remotely, or even relocating abroad–check them out! I’m happy to be a SafetyWing Ambassador!
Scarily, things got real on our first day of skiing, when one of the men in our chalet had a ski accident and needed to be evacuated by helicopter. Thankfully, he’ll make a full recovery! But it was a sobering reminder of how important it can be to have someone in your corner if something goes wrong.
Thank God, I didn’t have any accidents, but I was relieved to know I had coverage with SafetyWing just in case.
What Would I Do Differently?
I already can’t wait to go back and do another ski week in the French Alps with Hofnar. That being said, there are a few things I’d do differently:
- Explore different dates: It turns out that we booked during the school holidays, which meant the slopes were extra crowded and busy. There also wasn’t a lot of snow (but that may be more of a climate thing than a timing thing, unfortunately). I’d try a different time of the ski season and see how that changes things.
- Pack more underlayers: I could have taken out some of my nicer street clothes (everyone was mostly casual in town) and made room for more underlayers and sweaters. Coziness comes first!
The trip has come to an end and I can hardly believe it. I’m waiting for my final French meal while I scribble down final notes on this article at a restaurant. Snow’s drifting past the wide window that looks out onto the alpine hillside, peaked wooden roofs of the chalets already dusted white with powder. The town’s due for more snow next week, but we’ll be long gone by then. C’est la vie! But still–I’m over the moon about this unforgettable experience. The shin bruises, the souvenir chocolate, the memories–I’ll take it all. Until next time, Morzine.
Xx Denae
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