When you think of “Carnival”, what comes to mind? Otherworldly parades in Rio? Intricate masks in Venice? Burning the sardine in the Canary Islands? After almost a decade of living in Hungary, I’ve learned of a new tradition, and if you’re down to explore another corner of Hungary beyond Budapest, you might be interested, too: Busójárás–the March of the Monsters.
What is Busójárás?
This multi-day festival is rooted in the tradition of the Sokác people.
Legend has it that the Busó (monsters) were born when the Ottoman Turks tried to take over what is now modern-day Mohács. Under the cover of nightfall, the local Sokác people donned fearsome masks, gathered their noisemakers, and sailed across the Danube, ambushing the Turks and scaring them out of the city.
Nowadays, Busojárás–which translates loosely to the “march of the monsters”–is a powerhouse cultural event that brings history to life. People come from far and wide to see the spectacle–and to join in themselves!
In 2025, Busójáras runs from February 27th-March 4th. Learn more on their official website.
How To Get To Busójárás?
By train–the Busó Express:
You can reach the city of Mohács from Budapest by train. Normally it requires 1-2 transfers and takes anywhere from 4 1/2-5 hours. However, the rail/bus service, MAV, is creating a more direct route for the week of Busójárás. On March 2, 2025, they will run the Busó Express train, starting from 18,990 HUF. Make sure to book your ticket ahead of time!
By car/bus:
The drive to Mohács from Budapest is approximately 3 hours. This is the option I’ve always done and this is the way I’d suggest. If you have someone to drive you, great! Although, keep in mind that big part of Busójárás is partying with the monsters, so make sure to have a designated driver or make other arrangements.
Carpooling: The official Busójárás site links you to the Oszkar carpooling app.
Personally, I always booked a seat on a chartered bus arranged by a group of friends. It only cost me about 10k round trip and makes transportation worry-free. I’d suggest searching some of the expat or student groups on Facebook to see if anyone has arranged anything, as they often do!
What to Expect at Busójárás
The city of Mohács turns into one big party, and the program changes slightly from day to day (for example, one day has a ceremonial crossing of the river, where you can watch the Busó traverse the Danube in boats, just as they did centuries ago). Busojárás is a carnival where people go to dance with monsters, eat, drink, and be merry. So…yeah, things can get quite rowdy. There is so much to participate in and see, but here are some of the must-dos:
- Watch the Monster March: This is the main event! People line the streets to watch the Busó and their attendants strut through Mohács. Make sure to pay attention to their masks–each are handmade (some passed down through generations) and a true piece of art!
- Take in the Atmosphere: There is soooo much going on, on every sensory level. From the crush of the crowd to the smell of bonfire smoke to the constant din of the Busó bells and noisemakers, it’s best to surrender to the chaos (or find a quiet street to regroup in).
- Eat and Play at the Main Square: The main square is lined with food stands for the festival. You can get all of your classic Hungarian favorites (helloooo lángos), or get other street food, like gyros or burgers. The stage has folk dancing and folk music, and there’s even a ferris wheel.
- Celebrate at the Bonfire: At the end of the festival, the whole crowd filters into the Mohács main square for the ceremonial bonfire lighting. The thing is absolutely huge! It’s awe-inspiring to watch the monsters dancing, silhouetted by the crackling flames. I’d suggest getting to the square early so that you can mill about with the monsters–and maybe snap a pic or two!
Busojárás FAQs
People of all ages come to see the Busó, and plenty of families bring their kids! There’s even specific children’s programming some days. But keep in mind that it gets very, very crowded.
There are pay-to-use bathrooms at the train stations, and a few banks of pop-up port-a-pottys. But make sure to bring your own toilet paper/hand sanitizer, just in case!
Cash is king! Sure, a lot of the food vendors may accept card, but there will be smaller stands all over the city that may only deal in cash. So definitely do yourself a favor and bring some along.
The Busó are used to being the stars of the show, and many of them will gladly stop to take pictures with you if you ask nicely. There are other dressed up characters as well! However, some people in costume will ask for money if you take a picture, so be sure to figure out the situation before you snap a pic.
Ready to learn more? I’ve written even more about my Busójárás experience for Fodor’s Travel. Find the article here!
Visiting Busójárás is one of the coolest things you can do if you find yourself in Hungary over carnival season. I hope you get the chance to experience this festival for yourself!
Happy marching!
Xx Denae
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