A story of poor planning, sleep deprivation, good intentions, mixed results, and the tenacity of friendship on the Emerald Isles.
Ah, Ireland. How can I encompass my love for this jewel of the Atlantic? From the calendar I had when I was thirteen, to the Claddagh ring I proudly bought with my own money as a girl, to the embarrassing amount of times I’ve watched Leap Year…To say that I’ve romanticized the Emerald Isles over the years would be an understatement. So when a friend in Cork invited me to stay with her over St. Patrick’s weekend, how could I refuse?
Is the grass always greener…?
My mind was filled with images of fiddle music, strapping Irish lads, frothy Guinness…and there was all that. But there were also long layovers, missed buses, aching feet and crowded city centers. I want to keep my travel accounts as honest as possible, after all, and some trips don’t always come up roses (er, shamrocks?).
But with Ireland only a 3 hour flight away, a flexible remote job, and a friend ready to show me around, I hoped fo the best. Turns out, I was right to! These are my highs and lows of celebrating St. Patrick’s Day 2022 in Ireland.
First Impressions
The biggest surprise? The celebrations were relatively chill. People were still having a good time, for sure, but there weren’t any barrel chested men doing a drunken jig wearing shirts saying “Kiss me, I’m Irish!”.
What to Do in Cork?
Instead of heading straight to Dublin or Galway, I arrived in the southern city of Cork. Branded as a “working city” and not as glamorous as its Northern counterparts, I wouldn’t have known about it if my friend hadn’t been living there. But it turned out to be my favorite!
Why did it burrow into my heart? Perhaps the lack of tourists (excluding myself, ofc) made it easier to enjoy. There are a few souvenir shops, but mostly locals and students. It’s easily walkable and the pubs are quite cozy indeed.
Where to Stay in Cork: Belvedere Lodge Bed and Breakfast
I booked here on a whim and was so glad I did. After an obnoxiously long travel day, I wanted some space to unwind. Plus, I wanted to fulfill my “Bed and Breakfast in Ireland” fantasy. It’s a 10 minute bus (~€2) or taxi (€10) ride from the center, so it’s quite peaceful. I loved walking around the lush backyard after indulging in their killer breakfast (€9 for a full Irish made-to-order plus a buffet. Don’t miss it!)
Now, this is one of the things I love about solo travel: you’re more open to meeting people. And whom should I strike up a conversation with over my black pudding than a handsome musician there with his band (btw, check Whiskey Sunday out, they sounded so good!)? They were in town playing for St. Paddy’s and I got invited along! Plans for the day were already falling into place.
What to Eat/Drink in Cork
The Shelbourne
This pub in the Victorian District was everything that lives in my mind’s eye when I think about Irish pubs. Comfy benches, frosted glass partitions, burnished wood bar, a rosy glow all around. The crowd also skewed older, as opposed to the student haunts across the river. Were I to have a local, this would be it.
Abbot’s Ale House is a treasure chest of craft beer and happy times. Cork isn’t that large to begin with, but it still manages to have that “off the beaten track” feel, even though it can’t be more than a 15-minute walk from downtown. It was almost too crowded to get in to begin with, until the blustery bouncer yelled at a group of guys to make room at their table and voila: instant seats and friends. You may come to Ireland to get a pint of Guinness, but the Abbot’s draw is their ever-changing offers of craft beers. When one would run out, another would pop up in its place. A night well spent.
Hillbilly’s : I’d seen people eating this all day long, but after a few drinks it makes even more sense. Late night food in Budapest is gyros and burgers. But garlic cheese fries and a juicy chicken burger? Inspired.
It literally rained on the St. Paddy’s parade, but that couldn’t dampen our spirits! There were plenty of cozy pubs to run into for cover.
What to Do in Galway
After the festivities, we were headed off to Galway! (And yes, Ed Sheeran was playing on loop through my head, thank you very much.) I had heard so much about the colorful city, but our last-minute planning made it a bit more strenuous than it had to be. After missed buses and long delays, we made it to the only Airbnb available in our price range. Cons: 20-minute walk from the city. Pros? A lovely host and beds with heated blankets. How GLORIOUS.
What to Eat/Drink in Galway
Trieste Cafe & Wine Bar was charming with an even more charming owner. Perfect for a pit stop when you need a break from traditional pubs. Get the baked brie!
The bright red facade of Tig Choili welcomes you in. Depending on when you walk past, you might hear traditional music drifting out of the door as well (it’s scheduled at least twice daily). You’ll see a lot of tourists with their bags, either stopping for their first drink or their last.
The Crane Bar is a well-worn pub with regular traditional music upstairs. Get there early to grab your cider and grab a seat up close!
Originally when thinking of Galway, the plan was to see the Cliffs of Moher. The reality was a dearth of rental cars. We were *this* close to paying €200 for a cargo van before we realized…it’s okay to change plans. With that decision, the stresses of the day slid off, and we went to find coffee and just enjoy the surrounding area instead.
The Takeaways
In just four short days I had packed in countless steps, Irish ciders, delectable fish and chips, sleep deprivation, and precious new memories. I learned the true value of planning ahead and the even larger value of having a travel buddy who can stay gracious even when both of your feet hurt and you just want to be home already.
Soon I was en Route to the Dublin Airport, headed to…Budapest? Oh no. Because I, in all my infinite wisdom, had booked a remote work week in Portugal immediately afterward. Never mind that both my body and bank account were a little tired at this point. I was going. Honestly, on hour 4 of pseudo-sleeping at an airport table so that I could catch my 5 am flight to Lisbon, I was a little tempted to cut my losses and head home. But off to Lisbon I went. And spoiler alert? It was worth it.
Becoming a Digital Nomad
Landing a remote job has given me opportunities I’d only daydreamed about. Traveling around the world, only needing my laptop and a strong wifi connection to work? Yes please! I’m still new at this digital nomad thing, but I’m sure as hell going to give it a chance. Come on the journey with me!
Read: Digital Nomad Diaries Pt. 1: Portugal!
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