When I told people I was going to spend 72 hours in Edinburgh, I got largely the same reaction: “I looooove Edinburgh!”. After spending a long weekend there, I get it! For all of the brooding dark brick buildings and gothic spirals, the lively students and good cheer spilling out of the warm pubs combat any melancholy. What you’re left with is a fun atmosphere which pushes back against the overcast weather–especially with the first glow of Christmas decorations! Here’s a guide of how to spend a laid back 72 hours in Edinburgh!
Day Trip: Stirling
Actually, my first day in Edinburgh I didn’t even really stay in Edinburgh! History drew us an hour outside of the city to Stirling, Scotland (my family has a thing for William Wallace). Edinburgh’s Waverley Train Station connects you with the whole of Scotland, and getting to Stirling was quite easy. We purchased a round trip, off-peak ticket for about £10 each. Off peak times between Edinburgh and Stirling were 09:15-16:42, and then after 18:10.
Once in Stirling’s winding downtown streets, we set off to find Stirling Castle. In lieu of staying glued to Google Maps, we just tried to find the castle by heading vaguely uphill. I’m so glad for this pointed wandering because it let us stumble upon a great treat: the Stirling Distillery.
Stirling Distillery Gin Tasting—Only £5
Settled nicely in what was once a church temperance hall (oh the irony), the Distillery only opened this past June. It was really special to sit in that stone hall, and more intimate than I expected out of a distillery! It was small but fresh, and you could tell that so much work and excitement went in to building it. Our enthusiastic guide Lara took us through the tasting of a gin and tonic and a couple of fruit infused gins (the raspberry was so good I had to bring some back to Budapest). We even got a visit from the distillery’s beautiful dog (no pics because I was too busy falling to pieces over how cute he was)! The other Americans there had also just stumbled upon the distillery, so it felt like a fun little secret. The tasting was only £5!
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on one of the streets leading to the distillery
Stirling Castle
After our pleasant detour, it was onto the main attraction: Stirling Castle. Admission was £16 (save £1 by buying online) and the free tour added so much to the experience (ask for Jenny, if you can!) As full of history as Edinburgh is, Stirling Castle is like the Stuart/Tudor/Jacobite/William Wallace extravaganza. It’s kind of head spinning to think of all the significant things which went on there. The William Wallace memorial is also just a 10 minute taxi ride, although we didn’t make it over there.
At the end of the Wall Walk at Stirling Castle 
Taking my place on the throne in the Great Hall
After the tour we took some time to gape at tapestries, stand in Mary Queen of Scots’ bedchambers, and of course, sit on the throne in the great hall. We ended our visit with a wall walk that looks over rolling Scottish hills…but that was also pretty chilly so we ran for cover (and delicious fish and chips) to No.2 Baker Street pub and hopped the train back to Edinburgh.
Walking Around Edinburgh
With only 72 hours in Edinburgh we wanted to take it easy. There’s no point in spending a vacation running around everywhere, right? Luckily, Edinburgh is very walkable so strolling around still let us see plenty.
The charming Rose Street was our first port of call, chock full of festive shop windows and traditional looking and pubs. The pubs looked a little like tourist traps, but I couldn’t resist! They were so cute!
Of course, no weekend in Edinburgh would be complete without walking down the Royal Mile, starting at the majestic Edinburgh Castle and ending at Holyrood Palace. Here you’ll pass many a bagpiping busker, shiny looking pub, and fudge shop (which I certainly couldn’t resist). I know everything on this street is bound to be super touristy, but the candy shops have a wide range of decently priced fudge, so that was where I capitalized on my souvenir shopping.
Edinburgh’s winding alleys make it difficult to stay on track, and before we knew it, we were exploring the brightly painted lane of Victoria St. just behind the Royal Mile. I admit, I had trouble taking everything in because I made a beeline straight for The Boy Wizard shop. Honestly, who am I to resist Harry Potter merchandise? However, what really takes the prize for most unexpected attraction goes to the Knight’s Vault just down the street. A big draw is that they can print your family crest/coat of arms, but my favorite part was playing around with all of the weapons! Come here to fulfill all of your Lord of the Rings/Outlander/Game of Thrones fantasies. Trying out the swords, battle axes, and daggers…it made me feel like a warrior queen!
Eat + Drink in Edinburgh
A university city, there’s no shortage of places to grab a pint or a whisky when you’re spending a weekend in Edinburgh. However, one stands out in my mind spectacularly. In the city center you’ll find a large, majestic domed building affectionately called…well…The Dome. Decked out for Christmas, it was like walking into a glittering jewelry box. If the chandeliers in the entrance don’t catch your eye, you’ll be hard pressed to miss the towering Christmas tree at the bar. The Dome also hosts an afternoon tea for £20 apiece that looked delicious. Unfortunately, we didn’t know we had to book 48 hours ahead, so we missed it. Also consider popping next door and grabbing a nightcap at the trendy bar of Hotel Le Monde.
While Rose Street is pedestrian and charming, my favorite place to look for independent restaurants and bars was Thistle Street. Stop into the relatively new Thistle Street Bar for a local feel, or grab some bone-warming Indian at the Pakora Bar.
Finally, when looking for breakfast, I have to point you to Urban Angel. After a couple days of burgers and fish and chips, some nutritional value was sorely needed. And this bright, glowing basement cafe totally delivered. Every baked good in their case looked decadent, and when they brought our our food I was so glad to see that they didn’t skimp. Like, it was a mountain of bacon on top of my eggs benedict. And they had a wide selection of smoothies (the turmeric was lovely). I wish we had found this place sooner than our last morning in Edinburgh! We also tried Cafe Rouge, which might not be classically Scottish, per se, but at least has some solid breakfast deals (like a full Scottish breakfast for £7 or so.)
Finally, a scone! 
Edinburgh was lovely. Even now I’m still thinking about it, tempted to buy the first plane ticket back. Relaxing strolls, festive drinks, and convenient day trips make me think that 72 hours in Edinburgh isn’t nearly enough!
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